A RV.NET Memorial Sticky?
I noticed on the PUX Forum, they have a forum dedicated to one of their long-time members that has passed on.
After reading of the members, moderators and admins that we have all come to know and love over these years, passing on here, what does everyone think of a sticky in this Forum that can be up-dated as needed?
A fitting memorial to those that have contributed greatly to this site over the years.
RE: Honda eu2000i...Best Price?
GOOGLE is your friend.
Click on my link and it takes you to the Google shopping page for the Honda EU2000.
$750.00 HERE
RE: Banning street parking of RVs in Montgomery Cnty, MD
I have been involved in the RV industry for many, many years. I RV myself and own a 31' TT and a PUP. I keep the in-new-condition PUP parked beside the house behind a fence.
A few doors down from me, there is a guy who has had a non-operating 1970 AMC Javalin parked in his driveway for the 15 years I have lived here. It sits right outside of his large 3-car empty garage.
Up at the other end of the street sits a 1963 Shasta trailer that has yet to be restored with outside panels missing and insulation hanging off.
When we moved here, it was a pretty nice up-scale neighborhood but since housing prices have dropped and former renters can now afford to purchase, many have moved into the area along with their crappy cars and RV's.
After 30 years in the business, I am all for RVer's rights, to a certain point. That point is when someone decides to park junk in the driveway, parks an RV in the driveway, be it new or old, that hangs out over the side-walk, parks an RV in the driveway with the slides out and the entry step down and being used for a guest room, and dis-abled cars, trailers, utility trailers and boat/motorcycle trailers that have needed a paint job for years.
I applaud reasonable HOA's that have the best interest of EVERONE in mind when it comes to this blight that affects many neigborhoods.
We don't pay up-wards of three-quarters of a million dollars for a home to have to live in the midst of slobs that obviously have no concept of the meaning of "Pride-Of-Ownership"!!
I am also for signs such as posted at all of the city limits in Simi Valley California that state "No Vehicles Over 6' Tall Allowed On Public Streets After 11:00PM". This then keeps those people that think the streets are solely for them to live on in their converted vans and school buses.
A good comprimise, I have always felt, was the city ordinances that allow parking of RV's on the street for a limited time, enough for the average camper to load and un-load.
RE: Pilot Light in Oven Not Staying Lit-Question
Thermocoupler function:
fluid in a bulb
fire heats fluid
fluid expands
fluid travels through very thin tubing to button inside of the gas valve
fluid expansion creates pressure on button in thermocoupler connection at gas valve
as long as button maintains pressure, gas will flow to pilot light burner
if thermocoupler cools (or fails to heat) the required pressure at gas valve to keep pilot light burning is absent, causing gas valve to stop gas flow to pilot light burner.
I was always under the impression thermocouples created a milli-voltage that held open a magnet-like valve. The differential heating of two dissimilar metals creates an electrical potential, thusly creating current.
You are correct. (I didn't want to "dis" the Vintager)
The thermocouple connection on a gas valve is electrical, NOT pressure/mechanical.
The exception would be a gas safety valve in an oven that uses mercury in the capillary tube.
This is why thermocouples have a 750mv (millivolt) rating.
Here is a cut and paste from a site that I Googled.
A discovery by T. J. Seebeck almost 150 years ago, opened the way for modern thermoelectric circuitry. In 1831, Seebeck discovered that an electric current flows in a closed circuit of two dissimilar metals when one of the two junction is heated with respect to the other.
In such a thermocouple circuit the current continues to flow as long as two junction are at different temperatures. The magnitude and direction of the current is a function of the temperature difference between the junctions and of the thermal properties of the metals used in the circuit. This phenomenon, is known as the Seebeck Affect.
The conductors can be of any two dissimilar metals, and when the hot junction is heated the current flow can be observed on a milliamp meter. If the position of the hot and cold junction is reversed, current will flow in the opposite direction.
In fact, a thermocouple circuit will actually generate a measurable, low voltage output that is almost directly proportional to the temperature difference between the hot junction and the cold junction. A unit change in this temperature difference produces some net change in the voltage.
RE: Metro RV
How about that lot just south of you in Thousand Oaks, just off the 101, that has units for sale by owners?
I went in there once on a Saturday and the place was loaded with people looking at RV's.
RE: EccoTemp Water Heater
Thanks for pointing that out, Mike.
I considered this and decided that when I use it for the TT, I can tap into the low-water drain on the cold side as well as the low-pressure quick-disconnect for the propane.
On the PuP, I'll have to add an extra water supply that terminates outside and use my small 5# propane tank.
But :S, now that I think of it, on the TT, I could just use the outside shower or provide a shower wand connected to the hot-water low-point drain.
Oh well. Still need it for the pup.
EccoTemp Water Heater
Anyone using THIS water heater?
I ordered one on sale for $108.00 and am looking forward to using it when I use the PUP and for doing dishes outside with the TT.
RE: Propane Pressure Regulator
there is excess flow valves that will shut down as a safety feature in case of a line breaking ,opening the gas valve slowly will allow gas to pass thru ,if opened really quick the valve may close.
Correct. This is what those "flappers" are you see in the rubber pigtail lines. All new pigtails have them and some even have a thermal device that shuts down gas flow should temps reach 200 degrees.
RE: Up-Date on DD Jennifer. Back In Hospital. Need Prayers!
I wanted to up-date this thread in case anyone has subscribed.
Jennifer continues to improve and we are looking at going home tomorrow if all is well.
We will no be bringing her home with an IV but will continue some antibiotics via an inhaler into her trach-tube.
Took Tana to Lawerys in Beverly Hills for her birthday last night and had a wonderful time. Even though we were aprehensive to both leave Jen for a few hours, it was good to get away. The wonderful nurses did fine when we were gone.
I'll post again after we return home.
Steve
RE: Poor Refrigerator Performance In Hot Weather
When I operated my RV service business in Desert Hot Springs California, temperatures got into the 110 degree range.
I owned a RV myself and also worked on many refrigerators in others.
I can say this from my experience:
In a RV absorbsion refrigerator, if the unit is level, installed properly and operating properly, outside ambient temperature should have no affect on the cooling performance.
With my current TT, I have a Dometic refer that operats 24/7 and has for the last two years. The inside temperature of the refer stys at a constant 31-34 degrees according to my digital thermometer. This is with our Valley temps reaching sometimes into the 108 degree range.
I use no fans behind the cooling unit nor any fans inside the refer.
Now I know that some will say I am wrong when I state that ambient temps shouldn't affect an RV refer but I am stating this from my own experience with the RV's I have owned and serviced.
And adding fans in the rear could certainly help the situation but my take is that the units that fans help have an issue with either improper installation/venting or other issues.
Many, many RV's I have seen DO NOT install the refers nor provide adequate venting/baffling as recommended by the refer manufacturers.
That void many RV's have above the refers are rarely sealed off from the rear as they should be and this is a major cause of refer venting problems.
Let me also mention that when I would visit the factory where I purchased my re-built cooling units from, they would have 10 rebuilt units (the cooling units only, no box) on a test rack, all connected
to 110-volts and testing in a warehouse/shop with very high indoor temps and they would have frost on the freezer plates.
RE: Black streaks
Welcome to the Forum.
HERE is 33 pages of info on black streaks.
Also, if you click on the "RVing FAQ" on top of the page, there is a section on black streaks.
RE: Norcold 1200LRim cooling unit died??
Well, if the refer is getting down to those temps, I wouldn't suspect that the cooling unit is defective.
About the only thing that can go wrong with a cooling unit is a leak or a blockage and in both cases, your refer wouldn't usually be cooling at all.
RE: Poor Refrigerator Performance In Hot Weather
I had the same problem in Myrtle Beach last week. I did move the little sensor down on the fins in the fridge and that seemed to help a little.
I was looking at those fans at the Camping World there and wondering if it's worth the money or not.
Fuzz, just an FYI...........
To get the refer colder, the thermistor needs to be raised higher on the fins.
RE: Problem with Dometic AC
I'll share my experience.
My new TT has a Dometic 15K ducted unit. When I first got it, the evap coil was icing. I found, as Doug has mentioned, that the freeze-sensor had dislodged from the evap coil. I re-installed it and have had no icing since.
I even run the air on low speed for the entire day and still no icing.
While I was working on the unit, I also noticed that the factory didn't seal the area between the supply air and return air very well and the foam tape was pulling away from the sides of the plenum.
I re-sealed this area and I could notice a considerable drop in supply air temperature.
In my service experience over the years, the main problems I found with units icing up has been the two problems I mentioned above and dirty filters and dirty evaporator coils.
I have rarely found low refrigerant charges.
In a properly operating air-conditioner that has been properly maintained by cleaning, the unit should work fine on the low fan setting.
RE: Pilot Light in Oven Not Staying Lit-Question
I have read a few times, from member dougrainier (I think this is the name) that there is a factory defect with the lnobs on these units. The cure is to place a piece of cardboard inside the shaft of the knob so you can pess the know in farther during the lighting sequence, therby opening-up the gas valve a little more.
I have seen replies from members that after doing this, the problem was cured.
On edit, HERE is a link to that procedure.
